Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Cassowary Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

Have you ever wondered what it would feel like to stand next
to a dinosaur? Look no further than the rather impressive
cassowary: strong powerful legs, long sharp talons, a
colourful face and a thick head crest – it is often called the
most dangerous bird in the world! But these two-metre (six
feet) tall, feathered giants prefer a diet of tropical fruit –
which they swallow whole in one gulp – and a quiet, secluded
life, walking in the forest; they really are a beautiful sight to
behold!

Dimensions
35cm (13¾in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton), 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Sailor Blue (shade 440)
Dark Grey: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Slate Grey (shade 406)
Light Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Marine Blue (shade 434)
Red: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Pillar Red (shade 415)
Orange: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Melon Sorbet (shade 417)
Black 1 (feathers): 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Pure Black (shade 402)
DMC Natura Just Cotton 4-ply (100% cotton), 155m (170yds) per
50g (1¾oz) ball:
Black 2 (feathers): 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Noir (shade 11)
Hooks

3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 10.5mm black safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or wire (optional)
Small piece of thick felt or fabric stabilizer
Tapestry needle
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins

FUN FACT
The cassowary is an emotional
character. It can change the colour
of its head and neck depending on
what kind of mood it’s in.
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.
Project notes
The head, neck and body of the
cassowary are worked in one
piece from the top down. The
feathers are added after assembly.
Using a combination of different

black yarns creates a more
interesting texture – and you can
use up all your scraps of black
yarn here too!
Eyes
Make 2 in Orange yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc in all 5 sts. [10]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Insert the safety eyes through the centre of the eyes but don’t fasten
the backs. Set aside for now. (photo 1)

Head, neck and body
Make 1, start in Light Blue yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (3sc, inc 3 times) 2 times. [18]
Round 4: 3sc, (1sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 3sc, (1sc, inc in next st) 3
times. [24]
Round 5: 3sc, (inc in next st, 2sc) 3 times, 3sc, (inc in next st, 2sc) 3
times. [30]
Round 6: 3sc, (3sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 3sc, (3sc, inc in next st) 3
times. [36]
Round 7: 3sc, (inc in next st, 4sc) 3 times, 3sc, (inc in next st, 4sc) 3
times. [42]
Round 8: 3sc, (5sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 3sc, (5sc, inc in next st) 3
times. [48]
Rounds 9–12: Sc in all 48 sts. [4 rounds]
Round 13: 15sc, change to Blue, 33sc. [48]
Fasten off Light Blue.
Rounds 14–15: Sc in all 48 sts. [2 rounds] (photo 2)

Round 16: 3sc, (inv dec, 5sc) 3 times, 24sc. [45]
Round 17: 3sc, (4sc, inv dec) 3 times, 24sc. [42]
Round 18: 3sc, (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times, 24sc. [39]
Round 19: 3sc, (2sc, inv dec) 3 times, 24sc. [36]
Round 20: 3sc, (inv dec, 1sc) 3 times, 24sc. [33]
Round 21: 3sc, inv dec 3 times, 24sc. [30]
Add the safety eyes (already inserted in the Orange circles) between
Rounds 13 and 14, arranging them on the half of the head with the
decreases, about 15 stitches apart. (photo 3)

Round 22: (8sc, inv dec) 3 times. [27]
Rounds 23–46: Sc in all 27 sts. [24 rounds] (photo 4)

Round 47: 21sc, 6slst. [27]
Now start the increases for the body.
Round 48: 21sc, inc 6 times. [33]
Round 49: (6sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 12sc. [36]
Round 50: 24sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 6 times. [42]
Round 51: (7sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 18sc. [45]
Round 52: 30sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 6 times, 3sc. [51]
Round 53: (8sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 24sc. [54]
Round 54: (inc in next st, 8sc) 6 times. [60]
Rounds 55–62: Sc in all 60 sts. [8 rounds]
Add toy stuffing to the head and neck. (photo 5)

Round 63: 6sc, (inv dec, 6sc) 3 times, 30sc. [57]
Round 64: 6sc, (5sc, inv dec) 3 times, 30sc. [54]
Round 65: 6sc, (inv dec, 4sc) 3 times, 30sc. [51]
Round 66: 6sc, (3sc, inv dec) 3 times, 30sc. [48]
Round 67: 6sc, (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times, 30sc. [45]
Round 68: 6sc, (1sc, inv dec) 3 times, 30sc. [42]
Round 69: (4sc, inv dec) 7 times. [35]
Round 70: (3sc, inv dec) 7 times. [28]
Round 71: (2sc, inv dec) 7 times. [21]
Add lots of toy stuffing to the body.
Round 72: (1sc, inv dec) 7 times. [14]
Round 73: Inv dec 7 times. [7]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 6)

Beak
First make 2 pieces in Dark Grey yarn, then join them together.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Rounds 2–3: Sc in all 5 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 4: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 5: Sc in all 7 sts. [7]
Round 6: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [9]
Round 7: Sc in all 9 sts. [9]
Round 8: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 9: Sc in all 11 sts. [11]
Round 10: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 11: Sc in all 13 sts. [13]
Round 12: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15]
Round 13: Sc in all 15 sts. [15]
Fasten off one piece. Make the second piece, then carry on joining
the two together as you work. (photos 7, 8, 9 and 10)

Round 14: 3sc (do not count as stitches in the total), (3sc in next st,
3sc) 2 times, 3sc in next st, bring the first piece next to the second
(the one you’re working on), skip first 3 sts of the first piece, 9sc
along the first piece, skip the last 3 sts. [24]
Round 15: Start this round in the first stitch of the first increases
from Round 14, 1sc, (3sc in next st, 5sc) 2 times, 10sc. [27]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Cut two thin triangles of fabric stabilizer and insert them into each
beak section. Sew up the middle section. (photos 11 and 12)

Head crest
Make 1 in Dark Grey yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 3: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 4: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 2 times. [18]
Round 5: (4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 6: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 16sc. [24]
Round 7: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 17sc. [26]
Round 8: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 18sc. [28]
Round 9: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 19sc. [30]
Round 10: 9sc, 3sc in next st, 20sc. [32]
Round 11: 10sc, 3sc in next st, 21sc. [34]
Round 12: 11sc, 3sc in next st, 22sc. [36]
Round 13: 12sc, 3sc in next st, 23sc. [38]
Round 14: 13sc, 3sc in next st, 24sc. [40]
Round 15: Sc in all 40 sts. [40]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Press flat along the increase line.
Cut a matching shape from some thick felt or fabric stabilizer. For a
better fit, cut a curve along the longest edge of the stabilizer piece,
matching the curve of the top of the head. (photos 13 and 14)

Place the stabilizer inside the crest and add a little stuffing on either
side of it. (photo 15)

Pin the beak over the front of the head, covering up the colour change
line, with the triangular section at the top. Sew it into place. (photos
16 and 17)

Pin the crest to the top of the head with the tip overlapping the top of
the beak. Sew it into place. (photo 18)

Wattles
Make 2, start in Red yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc in all 5 sts. [10]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [15]
Rounds 4–5: Sc in all 15 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 6: (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times. [12]
Rounds 7–8: Change to Blue, sc in all 12 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 9: (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times. [9]
Rounds 10–17: Sc in all 9 sts. [8 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Add a little stuffing into the base.
(photo 19)

Sew the two wattles to the top of the neck between Rounds 24 and 27. (photo 20)

Feet
Make 2 in Dark Grey yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: 3sc, (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 3 times, 3sc, inv sc3tog. [22]
(photo 21)

Round 5: 3sc, (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 3 times, 4sc. [28]
Round 6: 3sc, (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 3 times, 4sc. [34]
Round 7: 3sc, (4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) 3 times, 4sc. [40]
Round 8: 3sc, (4sc, inv sc3tog, 4sc) 3 times, 4sc. [34]
Round 9: 3sc, (3sc, inv sc3tog, 3sc) 3 times, 4sc. [28]
Round 10: 3sc, (2sc, inv sc3tog, 2sc) 3 times, 4sc. [22]
Round 11: 3sc, (1sc, inv sc3tog, 1sc) 3 times, 4sc. [16]
Round 12: Sc in all 16 sts. [16]
Round 13: (2sc, inv dec) 4 times. [12]
Rounds 14–15: Sc in all 12 sts. [2 rounds]
Cut out a shape to match the footprint of the foot from stabilizer and
insert it into the foot. Top up the stabilizer with some toy stuffing.
(photo 22)

Round 16: (2sc, inv dec) 3 times. [9]
Rounds 17–26: Sc in all 9 sts. [10 rounds]
The next few rounds create the knee bend.
Round 27: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 28: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 29: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15]
Round 30: Sc in all 15 sts. [15]
Round 31: 6sc, inv sc3tog, 6sc. [13]
Round 32: 6sc, inv dec, 5sc. [12]
Rounds 33–36: Sc in all 12 sts. [4 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. At this point you could insert
some wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) into the leg, but this
is optional. Add some stuffing. (photo 23)

Assembly
Pin the legs to the base of the body, slightly forwards of the centre.
Sew them in place with the knees pointing to the back of the body.
(photos 24 and 25)

Next add the feathers. To do this you can use any Black yarn; a
combination of 4-ply and DK weights creates a nice uneven texture. If
you keep your yarn tail scraps you could add in any black scraps too!
Cut a bunch of Black yarn into 15cm (6in) pieces. Fold them in half
and hook them through the fabric of the body. (photo 26)

Now hook the two tails through the loop to secure each strand.
(photos 27 and 28)

Keep adding strands of Black yarn all over until your cassowary is
covered in feathers. Brush it out with a hairbrush and trim any strands
that are too long. (photos 29 and 30)

Final details
If you want to add more details, you could embroider the inside of the
beak in Red yarn. (photo 31)

Using Black yarn, embroider a claw onto each toe.Start by working
longer horizontal stitches over the same spot in the fabric, then
change to vertical stitches and work only over the stitches just done,
then change again to horizontal stitches and work over the vertical
stitches, each time adding a little less thread than before. Create
each claw in this way until you are happy with them. (photos 32 and
33)

YOUR CASSOWARY IS READY!